April 20, 2006
New Pages:
On the new page: Discussion of Feral Cats by Readers, we started a discussion of Feral Cats and their needs and care. We began to touch on taming them. That is the training discussion for this issue of the Newsletter.If you would like to contribute to this discussion, please post a note and let me know your thoughts. I will email you to ask permission to include anything you write before posting it.
On the new page Natural Flea Care 101, I discuss some ways to rid your home and cat of fleas without harsh chemicals. I linked to an article I received and listed some related products you can try. I hope it makes your home as flea-free as possible while not contributing to your chemical sensitivities.
There is a new photo page, with submitted and "stock" photos. I'm pretty sure you will be able to tell the difference. Please see for yourself!
I've added a page about Veterinary Technician and Assistant schools in the US. It includes reviews where possible. This is a growing profession for many, although the wages are not what they will be soon.
Angel Kitty was added just after the last newsletter. It is a tribute to a special cat. You can submit your stories and photos when you receive my return email. Please be sure the photo is under 100K or the posting may be delayed while I reduce the file size.
Toys That Work
Let's face it, our cats can be destructive. Parts and pieces of toys all over the house: missing eyes, tails, and stuffing. One way to lower the destruction is to clip your cat's claws. Get an inexpensive claw clipping tool at the pet supply store or try Millers Forge Cat Claw Scissors. The tool is easy to use and small. Simply extend your cat's claw a bit and take off the barest sharp point the first time you do this. Come back a week later and cut a little deeper. Continue until you are happy with the length and then clip once a month. Be sure that you never cut into the pink that shows in the center of the claw. By clipping the claws, you, your furniture and the cat's toys, will all have a better life-expenctancy.Some of you have asked for suggestions for indestructible cat toys. The best seem to be the balls made of lots of little pieces of rubber with a bell inside them; and the turbo-kitty toys. The balls can be stepped on by you and won't break, and the turbo toys have no parts or pieces that will come off. Also, the wand type toys - if kept away from puss while not in use - seem to have a long life.
To avoid boredom, keep some toys back and rotate the toys regularly. This gives your cat a "new" toy, while one that is no longer getting attention can be cleaned and put away for use later. I suggest that toys be cleaned of loose hair, dirt and lint before storage. Personally, I use a little decorative can in the windowsill. My cats know that there are toys in there, and when they are bored with their current selection of toys, they draw attention to the can.
Taming Feral Cats
I have tamed feral cats in my time. I think most of us have, whether we knew it or not. At least my beloved subscribers probably have.Taming a feral cat starts with food. Putting food out for that stray who regularly shows up on your doorstep on in your garage. You may decide that you can provide a better home for it.
Soon after that decision, a trauma follows for the cat: Trapping the poor thing! Yep, not pleasant at all! You get a Hav-a-heart trap from the pound or purchase one, set it and wait. Once you hear the trap spring, you have your hands full. The cat is angry, spitting, hissing and trying to take your fingers off.
It gets even worse, because you put the cage containing the cat in a vehicle and drive it to the vet. No self-respecting cat likes to ride in a car.
Some vets refuse to handle feral cats, others will charge you a mint, and then there are the truly wonderful vets who want to help and charge only the costs for materials, giving freely of their time. We all want to meet this last type. It helps to call around before you trap the cat in the first place to find out who will be this big-hearted, and go there directly.
The vet needs to be told this is a feral cat, and have tests for disease done, as you don't want to spend a lot on a terminally ill cat unless you know about it.
- If you have a sick kitty, let the vet be your guide. Try not to react at first, even though it is hard. Let the vet give you all the treatment options, and then make an informed decision.
- If the cat is not terminal, have the cat spayed or neutered and get full vaccinations.
Now we train the cat
You will need a large, enclosed, sheltered, area. Make sure it is protected from the elements but perhaps a window is fine. I suggest a garage or basement location. Outdoors, your cat will feel too vulnerable to other cats and animals. Also, if the shelter is outdoors, it will remind the cat that it is a captive, and you want the cat to like it, not fight it.Put the cat in this area with food, water and litter box. Supply an enclosed place to sleep that is off the ground, and maybe a couple of perches for your new cat. A scratching post is not necessary right now, but you can add one later. Your cat may not know how to use the litter box at first and that's fine. Just be sure to make it available. Your cat will figure it out pretty quickly.
Work with your cat's natural curiosity and intelligence. When you enter the containment area, move slowly and talk to your cat softly. Change the water and food, clean the litter box and clean any soil at least daily. You can do this twice or three times a day if you have the time. Once your cat is using the litter box, be sure to keep it clean. Treat your cat as if it were living inside your home as far as basic care is concerned.
You might put a toy such as a turbo chaser into the containment area for your cat after the first day or so to combat boredom. I also suggest one of the catnip-impregnated cardboard scratching flats currently available. Make it available to your cat, even if your cat doesn't seem to use it. He may be rubbing against it during the night time hours while you are asleep. You won't see any fur on it for a while, so just be patient.
After a week or so, bring in a wand-type toy with you, and spend some time with your cat. Offer the toy to play with your cat, but take the toy with you when you leave. You can try it with fleece about 6 feet long, a feather puff at the end of a long string, a furry mouse at the end of a long string; or something similar. You want to maintain your distance to promote trust and keep you safe; and at the same time, interact with the cat.
Eventually, the cat will look forward to your visits. Come into the shelter more often from this point forward. Make sure you go in in the morning and at night at the very least. If you placed the containment area in the garage or basement, you can now let the cat out of the shelter while you are there. If not, bring it into the house for a short visit. When your cat starts to get nervous, return it to the shelter. Leave it alone for an hour or so to calm down, and then call softly and see what response you get.
If the response is positive, go to your cat but just talk through the containment fencing. You need to be face to face, but not too close and not in the shelter with your cat. You want the cat to want you to come in, but you also need to foster trust on both sides.
By now, your cat will be ready for tentative petting. Maybe a stroke down the back or a scratch at the base of the tail. Your cat will tell you where. Move slowly and let the cat control things. This is a really big step for your cat, and patience now will pay off big in a very short period of time.
When your cat wants lots of cuddles, it's time to let your cat into your home. Set up food, water and litter box in the house. You stop feeding in the shelter now, but leave the litter box. Move the cat's bed into the house, too. Moving the bed is important, because it lets the cat know where it is supposed to live. Let the cat wander around, but continue to allow your cat to go back to the shelter if it gets nervous. The time between shelter visits will stretch out.
Your cat will eventually stop returning to the shelter altogether. You now have a tamed cat you can cuddle and love for as long as it lives.
Remember that your cat was fine on it's own. Never be condescending to your cat and treat it with respect. The love you receive in return will more than repay the vet and food bills.
You can get the enclosure suggested above at many pet stores, but it can cost quite a bit. Instead, you can make one with chicken wire or metal net and wood framing. Be sure to make a bottom and top as well as all the sides and a door for entry. The enclosure needs to be large enough for you to enter and be comfortable. You can make something temporary or permanent, that is up to you.
If you want the plans for the shelter, please use the contact form on the webiste and I will be happy to mail them to you. Include your mailing address in the body of the form and say that you want the "Free Plans" for the enclosure.
IMPORTANT! The "Free Plans" offer expires May 20,2006. After that date, the plans will still be available, but a small payment will be requested to cover copying and mailing.
Folks, I want to answer your questions in this Newsletter! Please write with your questions or suggestions for topics.
Specials and coupon deals are here, with this issue of the newsletter, just for subscribers. The specials and deals expire before the next newsletter mailing date, so shop now.
Spread the word about For the Love of Cats dot com, tell your friends to subscribe. You can forward this newsletter, also.
Morgen