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How to Groom Your Cat
Here are some ideas and tricks for how to groom your cat that I've found that I want to share. First I gather all my tools and supplies: shampoos, wash tub, toweling and a washcloth or two, flea preparations, etc. I got a harness at the local pet store that was for a small dog because it was adjustable and there weren't any for cats that offered this option at that store. I use the harness because my cats have more trouble getting out of it than a collar.
I put the harness on the cat and attach a lead or skinny rope to it and tie the other end up so that he can't lay down or get out of the harness. I tie it to the shower curtain rod or something else up high. The cats don't like it, but it really helps to immobilize them so I can groom them. Most cats will attack the brush or the person if they aren't used to being groomed. This is true even for Beasley and Princess, who get a lot of attention and know they are loved. Beasley will stand for short burst of brushing, and then attacks the brush. Princess won't let you do anything at all, not even a stroke of the brush.
I trim the claws just enough to take off the sharp tips, never enough to draw blood. I do this first, because a cat will attack me if given a chance. If you've never cut the claws before, cut only the barest sharp tip off the first time. Come back a week later and do it again, after the blood vessels have retreated a little bit. After that, you can cut the claws once a month and the cat should be fine.
So, now that I have the cat immobilized and the claws cut, I start by running my hands over the fur to find any hard mats. I'll try to brush them out, but I may cut those out carefully with scissors, being sure I don't cut the skin. If the mat is only held on by a few hairs, I use a seam ripper to remove it. If the mat is deep or next to the skin and pulling, I use an electric trimmer for pets. You can find these at beauty supply stores, too. I keep extra blades on hand and use the spray disinfectant for these shavers that lubricates, before and after each use.
| Cats are the ultimate narcissists. You can tell this because of all the time they spend on personal grooming. | After I've removed the worst of the mats, I'll brush the cat with the rubber-tipped wire brush. I brush with the hair, not against it. I try to get every part of the body, paying attention to the under-arm or under the front leg areas, belly and any other place that had mats. At the hind quarters, I'll trim up the hair to keep the mess down. If there is a build up on the skin, I use a washcloth dedicated to my pets, dipped in warm water and wrung mostly dry. I never rub, just blot the area. If there is a buildup, there is probably already some discomfort, so I just want to loosen it until we get to the skin. This can take some time, and possibly many attempts. If there is a mess there, a bath won't be given today, but I'll wait until the mess is gone. Keep a damp washcloth handy and gently pat the area several times a day until you see the area is clean, then trim up the hair and pat once or twice a day to keep it that way.
Once the brushing is done, I go back over the cat with a flea comb. I use a flea comb with tight tines so any tangles need to be gone before I start. This will give me a good idea about the flea population on my cat. I can apply flea preparations when I'm done grooming and then comb again later to remove the dead fleas. By doing things this way, I know if the flea preparation is working the way it is supposed to be or if I need other measures.
If my cat doesn't need a bath, but has a little greasy areas on his back, I can apply some cornstarch to the areas and brush it in. If my cat needs a bath, I'm at the tub already, so I just loosen the tie at the top and lower him to the tub. By being sure I've brushed out all the tangles before I get the cat wet, the tangles won't turn into mats. I put a pan in the tub and fill it with warm water for the washing part. I get out my cat shampoo and put a little in the tub.
When bathing your cat, be very careful around the face, but certainly wash it. You may want to use a washcloth for both washing and rinsing instead of dumping water over him. While you are bathing, you can check the ears for mites, or dark wax. If either is present, use a mite treatment. Never put anything in the ears, no matter how steady you think you might be. Leave that for the vet.
Since I have all my stuff laid out before I start, I'm not leaving the cat to look for a towel or shampoo, and the cat won't jump out. To rinse, I use a shower attachment at the faucet and check the temperature to make it a little warmer than lukewarm. I use mild pressure, only a little more than a gentle rainstorm. If my cat has dandruff at the base of the tail, as often happens, I can apply some cream rinse after the bath.
When I'm done washing and rinsing my cat, I dry gently by patting him dry and running the towel down in the direction of the hair. No use tangling up all that fur again! If my cat isn't completely nuts by this time, I may blow-dry a little to dry him even more. When he's completely dry, or after he gives himself a bath, I'll brush again. No bath this time, just to sort out the fur.
If I've had to cut any mats out, I will watch those areas over the next month or so and brush them often to prevent mats from re-developing at those spots. Once you cut a mat, the three layers of fur growing in can easily become tangled with the surrounding hair.
Yes, there are three layers of fur. The outside, which is long and course fur, is what we feel when we pet our cats. This occasionally sheds off, but there isn't that much of it. It's kind of like armor against bugs, other cats and rain. The middle layer is a little finer and adds padding and insulation, and protects against moisture reaching the skin to chill the cat. This is the hair that mostly sheds off your cat. The innermost layer of fur is the finest hair, and is for insulation against extreme temperatures. It is also the shortest of the hair. This hair turns into the middle layer as it grows, so rarely sheds off. It can come off during a tussle with another animal, however.
When all these layers are the short in one area and normal length right next to it, the cat is prone to mats. By brushing to avoid a mat, the hair has a chance to grow to it's normal length and mats should not re-occur. The exception is the lion cut. When cutting your cats fur with the trimmer into the lion cut, the feet, tip of the tail and mane are left intact and the rest of the fur is trimmed to a fuzz. Because all the fur around it is the same, mats rarely occur, but you still need to brush your cat to avoid shedding and skin irritation. I use a soft brush for this instead of the rubber-tipped wire brush.
You can train your cat into regular grooming by doing this restraining method and brushing weekly, eventually not having to restrain your cat. Then, you will only have to immobilize your cat to give it a bath. You should only have to wash your cat twice a year, if that. If your cat is overweight, you may have to wash your cat more often because your cat may have trouble grooming itself in some areas.
The trouble spots for mats seem to be the base of the tail on both sides, between the legs, the underarms and the pantaloons (the hair on the back legs beneath the tail). I'm sure there are technical terms for these areas, but this is what I call them. Dandruff occurs most often at the base of the tail and the greasy areas are usually down the spine from the ribs back.
For a short-hair cat, most of the above applies, but you might try a curry comb instead. This is a circular (almost egg-shaped) piece of metal in a handle. It removes loose hair and cuts the hair short. Only use this if your cat's hair is short to begin with. Don't use it on a lion-cut cat or a long-haired cat, as it can catch, irritate and upset your cat. If you use it on the lion cut, the skin beneath the fuzz may be very sensitive and the curry comb can be very uncomfortable, even painful for your cat.
After the grooming session, I give treats and goodies. I play with my cats so that they will forgive me for this intense activity. I hope this helps you with grooming your cat. I know some of the restraining measures seem extreme, but this method of restraint is much better than some I've seen and gives good access to my cat during the grooming process.
Related Pages:
How to be a Groomer
Flea Prevention
Additional Flea Control Preparations
Problems After Declawing Cats
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